![]() ![]() Use wire to hold the tree up, but allow some play. I would use two 6' 2x2" stakes, pounded at least 18 inches into the ground, placed opposite each other, with the tree directly centered. The tree will benefit from some support, as rocking at ground level will cause major root severing and will greatly set back even an otherwise healthy tree. Keep the mulch a couple inches from the trunk. This is one of the biggest problems I run into on new properties that had a less than ideal landscaping job. When a tree is planted too deeply, the roots will start circling the trunk of the tree, and can cause lots of damage that way. Pull the mulch/soil away from the base of the tree until you find where it widens, and lateral roots appear. You should be able to easily see the root flare of a tree. If the ground is constantly moist, the tree will grow a shallow root system. If it doesn't rain, water deeply only once per week. Water very deeply if the ground has been dry for two weeks or more. This will give the tree something to build with.Īgain, the tree doesn't have a great root system. Use a balanced, but fairly high nitrogen slow release fertilizer. The tree hasn't got many roots in the lawn, which obviously has had some nitrogen. Always cut back to a comparatively healthy outward facing twig/growth bud. This will put the tree back into (somewhat) proportion root-wise. Prune the whips of the last nursery-years growth by about two-thirds. If the top isn't pruned properly, the plant will not be able to grow well, and will only put out leaves with very little terminal growth.Ĭases like this are very common where I live. When a tree growing that fast is dug, more than half of the root system is removed. You can see the last year of growth from when they were at the nursery. They were probably 5-7 years old at planting, and planted as a balled and burlapped tree. ![]() They were obviously planted at near the same size they are at now. Point given, LaughingJack, though I'm not sure that counts for a comment - post as an answer! ![]() I suggest you check to see if there are any fungal sprays or treatments you can use in your area - the UK is very short on effective anti fungal treatments, but maybe its better there. Reference: UPDATE: Laughing-Jack may well be right when he mentions Phyllosticta - I jumped to Tar Spot, but actually, looking at it again, it might not be, but I'm 100% convinced this IS a fungal leaf spot - whether its phyllosticta or another type. Further, I've tested it myself when the temperature on my very sheltered balcony has been 55 deg C in direct sun by placing droplets on a Foxglove leaf, which is ridged and not smooth. Water droplets have a different refractive index from glass, and don't maintain their shape, which isn't true of glass droplets - the water also cools the leaf surface generally. But when the same tests were performed with real water droplets, on both smooth and non smooth leaves, no damage could be reproduced. I was shocked when I found out it was a myth, been warning people about it for years, but the original tests for this theory were performed with water droplet sized glass placed on leaves - the leaves burned. UPDATE: Regarding sun burn from water spots, this isn't possible. Removing the worst affected leaves might help, but I'm not convinced it makes any difference other than to reduce the aesthetic effect a bit. Some control can be effected by removing fallen leaves, particularly in Fall, because the spores over winter on the leaves. This infection doesn't kill the tree, but it can make it look unsightly (as you've discovered). It's a fungal infection, and in the UK, there is no effective fungicide treatment available, though you may find there is something you can use where you are. This is definitely an Acer, but what you're seeing there is a case of Rhytisma acerinum, commonly known as Tar Spot of Acer, or Acer Leaf Spot. ![]()
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